did you reverse the ball joints by chance?

yeah, i played around with them quite a bit. flip arm, try opposite, swap arm, etc.

it looks better not on the car because the subframe is not the final position decider. when i put it in the subframe, it looks much more off. one of the arms already has no bushings, and i dont want to go spend for bushings if it isnt gonna work, ya know?

me, i guess i dont care if it rides further back in the wheel well. and its not like i gotta have this figured out in time for the first drive either. my stamped arms are seam welded 100%..... so that will help. i guess we wait and see what happens.... i could get real deep into the experiment real fast if i got bushings, and offset subframe bushings, and did the diff-slot/move-back-to-compensate-for-offset-subframe-bushings action.

reviving this....

i been messing with this some more..... and i think i may have it.

i used pass forged arm on driver side with B3 driver side ball joint.
i used driver forged arm on pass side with B3 pass side ball joint.

the CQ ball joint has a little more offset than does the B3, and would put it further back yet. and thats what my issue was last year, i think it was because i had extra CQ ball joints, not B3.

so i am ordering a set of the offset subframe bushings ( 034 YES ) to move the wheels back forward in the arch, and then i will slot my rear diff mounts i made to suit so the rear diff gets back to where it needs to be.

i have been thinking about this alot lately, after running the car. the 2 bolt ball joints do not like to stay aligned when doing 6800 rpm 15psi drag launches. they toe in quite a bit. i suppose i could weld them but i do not want to weld to the cast ball joints. so i have been running with some rear toe in.... i have had the car aligned probably 6 times.... once i had it perfect, then did a practice launch and the rears were way toed in. went back, they re-aligned the rears, then drove it mellow then they toed way out. and after watching my launch sequence shots, i see that i still have some squat, but not much. i dont want to try this with the wheel closer to the rear of the arch.

but i think this will help alleviate that syndrome. Janis told me he has the same problem, with realignment after each drag racing hahaha....

and if i were confident in my TIG ability beyond straight welds, i would develop my own tubular control arms. a winter project, yes..... heim ends on all three mounting points. HMMMMMMMMMM. i think i can do it....

so here are a couple pix. but this first step made the wheel move ~ 1/4 to 1/2" rearward in the arch, depending on which side and what state of toe-in that side was. it'll happen. i was hesitant to do this earlier because i did not want to blow the $$$$ on an experiment. but after my issues with the 2 bolt ball joints, its more a need than a want at this point.

once i get it all sorted out, i will make the parts list as usual. and i went out today and bought a set of offset wrenches.... just another excuse to buy some tools LOL. but to get into the subframe and get to those nuts on the control arms, they make life easier. stock is 17mm both ends, while the bolts that 034 sends you have 16mm bolt and 17mm nut.

This is funny to see, cus i just came in from eyeballin the control arms/ball joints on mine thinking about idea's to move things around.

so now that i can figure out that with the 034 offset subframe bushings it will move the wheel forward, i take the plunge and get the bushings and also the Delrin control arm bushings. it was a semi largish expenditure to do on a whim, as i said, but i took the plunge as i know now it will work out for me.







and after i moved the subframe back forward, they are better centered in the well. still not PERFECT but fine enough for what i am doing.



so after all this, i take the rear diff mounts, redrill the holes for the front mounts and just slide the rear mount back so i do not pinch the driveline in there.

all is well.

now for another alignment after i get it running again.

which is in the works.

great info aaron, thanks for linking this, ill be implementing this on my roadcar cq and will report back on handling characteristics

I remember crawling under an old factory UrQ Rally Car @ Waterfest, spying an extra heim jointed link that attached near ball joints and ran forward to the frame rail right behind the front bumper, maybe 30" +/- IIRC. Owner told me it was to take the strain off the c-arms and their bushings when the car is jumped, and keep the car aligned.

Same deal might be useful (on front, rear or both) to keep the ball joints from moving fore/aft on a hard launch??? Maybe???

I can't find a picture on line, maybe I snapped some and can dig one up.

Dahlback Golf/Quattro pic attached shows similar long added links front and rear, suspension on it is 100% custom.

Bars shown here Sport Quattro? Car I spied had them on the front,

those most likely would be a radius rod setup or FWD traction bar system. i made them on my drag rabbit and it made a world of difference.

Any Pictures of the FWD Traction bars you made?

why of course

they worked and worked well. i noticed a big improvement in straightline traction and less torque-steer.

Excellent work! I think Im going to make some of those... I was breaking loose in 4th gear with lots of torque steer. Damn FWD.

exactly

The scirocco will be awd soon... With the sacrifice of a tt

is anyone runnign the b4 balljoints on the rear/front c-arm swap w/o moving the subframe?

bump anyone?

i doubt it, its not even close to center with stock location subframe. i couldnt even lower my car on the ground with 17's, b4 bj, and stock subframe location.

Go to a smaller profile tire and you will have a better chance? Your current tires are balloons!

I think I have found a solution for the balljoint problem for using cast arms on the rear of a CQ... only issue now is these specific balljoints cost about $75/ea. Not cheap enough for me to experiment with. I need to find a set in the junkyard, but the car they come off of are few and far between.

haha those arent my tires

how does this effect castor?


what car do they come on?

And whaddaya know? One of the local Pick'n'pulls JUST got one of them in last week! And they only charge $1.99 for balljoints

I will announce that when I am sure they fit and work right

i love the balloons, they are 255/45. Even if i switched to smaller sidewall of 255/40 its not even a 1/4" smaller per side.

caster gets seriously negative with the offset of the b4 bj & stock subframe local. Also the lower you are the farther back the wheel sits..