Making Space for slave Cylinder Removal 4k :: motorgeek.com

GillaumeDeBellvue · **Posted:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:55 pm

I've done this twice now but can't for the life of me remember how I created enough room to hammer out the lock pin that holds the slave into the bell housing.

I suppose;
the brake booster could be removed (don't really want to do that)
maybe one of the steering arms (?)

Anybody done this recently?

Cheers!

40v4kq · **Posted:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 4:59 pm

I know derracuda did this recently on one of his cars, maybe he'll chime in.

LDC007 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 28, 2012 6:40 pm

You do not need to remove anything sorrounding the slave cylinder. You might find that the tie-rod assembly will get in a way a bit, but still no need to removed it to get to the pin.

Just get a screw driver or dovel just slightly smaller in diameter than size of the hole where the pin goes in and a medium to small size hammer and pound away. BTDT three times.

I live in Fl, so no corrosion holding up the pin, thus, it came out with about 3 to 4 hits. Miight have to fight with it a bit more if you're in a snow-belt state where everything under the car gets sprayed with salt as you drive; if that's the case, spray the pin/housing with some kind of PB Blaster or penetrating oil for a couple of days before attempting to remove the pin.

Regards,

-Louis

GillaumeDeBellvue · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 4:33 pm

That did the trick! Just had to use a 6/32 drive and some hard taps. I think on re-assembly I'm going to connect everything and bleed the slave while its outside of the bellhousing. I read somewhere that it produces better results. Check out what I had a local brake/clutch shop make. $75 total

itcouldbeme · **Joined:** Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:17 am **Posts:** 58

Nice... I need me some of that!

What type of shop does that kinda work?

I know you said clutch shop, but I've never heard of such a thing. The only brake shops around here are like Midas, and can't do squat...

WAUG0806 · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 5:58 pm

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Pic of my tool 30" bent rebar with a drift/punch welded on the end... take of driver side wheel and drive it out.... carefully... you can swing a hammer in the wheel well run the tool through along the tie rod

be careful as the pin and slave cylinder are usually galled to the aluminum housing... I like to heat it with propane (clean off the grease) and quench with WD40 a couple times before trying to drive it out.

WAUG0806 · **Posted:** Sat May 12, 2012 6:21 pm

... I saw you had it out, easily... I live where cars are more salty and corroded! Put anti-seize on everything before you re-assemble it.

itcouldbeme · **Joined:** Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:17 am **Posts:** 58

GillaumeDeBellvue wrote:

I think on re-assembly I'm going to connect everything and bleed the slave while its outside of the bellhousing. I read somewhere that it produces better results.

Be careful with that.

On the one I have, you can blow the whole piston assembly right out the front of the housing. Nothing holds it in except the fork...

GillaumeDeBellvue · **Posted:** Wed May 16, 2012 8:43 pm

Yea that makes me nervous so I'll install it before I bleed the system. One more thing of concern; I noticed that after I put the pedal assembly back together, there is about an inch of play between the pedal at rest and the pedal at the point of engaging the master cylnder push rod. I believe it has to do with the return spring that pushes the pedal back out, it's almost like the return spring is bowing or torquing under tension.

Granted, the system isn't pressurized but shouldn't the pedal be "taught", in it's resting place?

Making Space for slave Cylinder Removal 4k

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